The Birth of a British Custom: Afternoon Tea's History
- Rahul Phalke
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Ever since tea reached England in the early 17th century, it has become the most popular beverage in the country. Drinking tea in the afternoon with biscuits is even considered a British custom. However, until the 19th century, tea was always considered a choice for starting the day or winding down at the end of the day. How did it become so popular as a midday drink?
“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” - Henry James
Afternoon Tea
With rising industrialisation and rapid urbanisation across Europe, the days were getting longer with widespread lighting in urban areas. While rural communities began their day as the sun rose and ended with a meal as the sun set, the wealthy classes, with their well-lit mansions, had their last meal of the day much later, sometimes at 8 or 9 at night. This left a huge difference between the two meals, as lunch time would usually be around noon. It meant that people went hungry for most of the day before a heavy meal at night, as there was no custom for a meal in between.
During the summer of 1840, when the Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Russell, spent time at their country house in Woburn, she was known to spend most of her days walking in the mansion gardens. She noted that she would feel exhausted and hungry by late afternoon, describing it as a ‘sinking feeling.’ Her solution was to take a quick break around 4 to 5 in the afternoon and call for a pot of tea with a light snack, such as bread and butter or cake, sent to her room.
Bored of eating alone, Anna decided to send cards to her friends inviting them to join her for a cup of tea and a walk in the fields. This soon turned into a social practice over the summer, and a great way for all the ladies to socialise and have a meal in the middle of the day.
Tea Service
As the summer ended and the Duke’s family travelled back to London, Anna continued her custom of inviting relatives and friends for tea in the late afternoon to her room. Cards were sent informing of the hour when tea would be served, and sometimes there would even be some entertainment. This afternoon ritual soon evolved into a cherished tradition centred around idle conversation and gossip over tea and cakes, inspiring other elite families across London to adopt their versions of the afternoon tea in their drawing rooms. According to popular myth, a few years earlier, the Earl of Sandwich had popularised light and quick meals by packing them up in two slices of bread. As the afternoon tea tradition spread within the wealthy classes, these convenient sandwiches became common fare at Tea Parties. Soon, Tea Rooms and Tea Gardens began opening across the country, offering dedicated Tea service complete with an array of pastries, cakes, and the now-popular sandwiches.
Afternoon Tea at The Ritz, London
One of the most renowned destinations for Afternoon Tea service to this day is The Ritz in London, where the experience is in such high demand that reservations typically extend three to four months in advance. What sets The Ritz apart is its distinction as the only establishment in Britain to employ a certified Tea Master, Giandomenico Scanu, who personally travels to tea plantations around the world to source the finest leaves. This dedication to excellence is reflected in their offering of over 20 different types of loose-leaf tea, expertly paired with a carefully curated selection of sandwiches, scones, pastries, and tea cakes. The experience is crowned by their signature in-house strawberry preserve and Cornish clotted cream.
Traditional Afternoon Tea Menu
Afternoon Tea emphasises a light meal served alongside a pot of tea, where the tea itself is the main focus. While most Tea Rooms offer a variety of loose leaf teas or tea blends, the most popular types of tea served in the afternoon are:
Assam Tea - A strong, full-bodied tea with a bold and malty flavour from Assam in India.
Darjeeling Tea - Another aromatic tea from India with a more subtle or delicate flavour and an astringent note.
Earl Grey Tea - A blend of black teas scented with the essential oil of bergamot. It has a floral and citric aroma and is named after British Prime Minister Charles, the 2nd Earl of Grey.
Lapsang Souchong - A strong Chinese black tea that is smoke-dried over pine needle fire. It gives the tea a distinctive smoky and floral flavour.
Along with tea, a variety of light baked goods are served, including scones, biscuits, cakes, pastries and tea cakes with sides of sweet preserves, marmalades and cream. Sandwiches are the most common fare with light fillings, especially Cucumber or Eggs with Mayonnaise, Smoked Salmon with cream cheese and Ham or Chicken with Mustard.
A Tradition Steeped in Time
From a duchess's afternoon hunger pangs to a beloved British institution, Afternoon Tea has certainly come a long way since Anna Maria Russell first called for that fateful pot of tea in 1840. What began as a simple solution to bridge the gap between lunch and a fashionably late dinner has blossomed into one of Britain's most cherished customs.
Today, whether you're queuing months in advance for The Ritz's legendary service or enjoying a quiet cuppa with friends at a local tea room, you're participating in a tradition that spans generations. The ritual remains wonderfully unchanged: delicate sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream, an assortment of cakes and pastries, and of course, a perfectly brewed pot of tea.
So the next time you experience that familiar 'sinking feeling' around four o'clock, remember the Duchess of Bedford and treat yourself to a proper Afternoon Tea. After all, some of life's greatest pleasures are found in the simplest of moments – and there's nothing quite like the civilised pause that comes with the gentle clink of china and the comforting warmth of a well-steeped cup of tea.
